In 1978, Jean-Louis Dumas, the fifth generation leader of Hermès, was in charge of Hermès. Hermès decided to enter the watchmaking neighborhood. For the past 50 years, Hermès has been selling products for high-end watch brands, or looking for The watch factory processed the watches for it. Until this year, the brand really entered the watch manufacturing industry. This was a risky move, because the crisis at that time was far from resolved, and the Swiss watch industry itself had fallen into a difficult situation. Of course, the benefits are also obvious. The downturn in the industry can allow Hermes to quickly enter this industry that is no longer unfamiliar to it. As a result, La Montre Hermès, headquartered in Biel, Switzerland, was born. This company’s main business is watch manufacturing, but in fact it has many registered trademarks. Dumas strengthened the company’s cooperation with suppliers, and its business scope has spread to scarves, In handbags, jewelry, silverware, crystals, etc., watches are just one of them. In 1999, the company moved to a larger and more spacious modern building not far from the original site, which could accommodate more employees.

Hermès La Montre Hermès

   La Montre Hermès is responsible for the production of watches and related components. In the same year, the Arceau series with horse stables as the design source was launched. In the 1990s, the shape of Arceau watches changed, and the ring at 6 o’clock was cancelled, forming today The look of an Arceau watch. In 1981, Hermès’s flagship series Clipper came out. Its iconic element was a porthole-style bezel. This was Hermès’ first sports-style watch series, which included functional watches such as big three hands, chronograph, GMT and It continues to this day. In 1991, another famous Hermès collection, Cape Cod, was launched for the first time (previously there are models, it is estimated that this year has been integrated into a series). Its design inspiration was from the hand of the artistic director of the ready to wear clothing series. In addition to this series of watches In addition to the distinctive design on the watch earrings, the double-circle strap has become the biggest highlight, which flaunts the watch’s strong fashion decoration effect. In 1997, the H-Hour series started with Hermès as its starting point. The H-label is very common in Hermès products, but this is the first time it appears in a watch shape. At the same time, it is bound to appear as a brand icon.

The most important watch series introduced from 1978 to 2003

   The establishment of La Montre Hermès company promoted Hermes’ watchmaking business. At the time Hermes still did not have enough technical support to fully produce its own watches, so it mainly adopted the Swiss movement manufacturers, watch cases, dials Waiting for the cooperation of watch component suppliers to launch their own watches. The brand combines design elements with distinctive DNA characteristics to combine with the traditional Swiss watchmaking industry, which is indeed a good direction for establishing the status of Hermes watch manufacturer in the early stage. At the same time, Hermès has not given up its original watch retail business, and still represents many high-end watch brands, such as Piaget.

Piaget 1990s with Hermes stamp

Open the chapter of fine watchmaking
   Compared with the old Swiss high-end watchmaking brands, Hermès’s watchmaking path from 1978 to 2003 is like a little fuss. In addition to design, Hermès completely lacks the most core technology of watchmaking. Guillaume de Seynes (Executive Vice President of Hermès Group, general manager of La Montre Hermès during 1999-2004) once said in an interview with the media that Hermès may be the industry leader in leather goods, and also has a clear position in the area of ​​scarves. One of the company’s goals is for Hermès watchmaking to occupy a place with quality and a fusion of creativity and style.

Mr. Guillaume de Seynes

   In 2001, after the vicissitude of the watchmaking company Vaucher, under the vertical integration of the Santos Family Foundation, it strengthened its core movement production capacity, and was reborn in 2003, becoming a Parmigiani machine. Core supplier. In the same year, Hermès also watched and started cooperation with this newly established movement factory with strong watchmaking capabilities. The birth of Hermes’ signature cushion watch series Dressage, and the use of high-quality Vaucher automatic movements, became the first step for Hermes to start the fine watchmaking business.

Vaucher movement factory

   In 2006, Hermès invested 25 million Swiss francs to buy 25% of the Vaucher movement factory, becoming an important shareholder of the movement factory. At the same time, Hermes relocated Brugg, a leather manufacturing workshop in Paris, to Bill to manufacture straps for Hermes watches and also provide high-quality straps for Parmigiani. As a result, Hermès has a stable and reliable quality movement manufacturer, and has become a watch manufacturing brand with homemade straps. Because Hermes’ leather goods are world-renowned, this has become a highlight of Hermes watches in the field of fine watchmaking.

Joseph Erard SA case manufacturer

   Since then, Hermès has continuously introduced cherished watch dials, advanced complex watches and uniquely designed watches that combine the excellence of its own workshops. In 2009, Philippe Delhotal, a member of Patek Philippe’s creative design team, went to Hermès as the creative director, further drawing closer. The distance between Hermès and fine watchmaking. Not only that, in 2012, Hermès acquired Natéber Dial Manufacturing Co., Ltd., a dial supplier based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which was born in 1972. At the end of 2013, it acquired the case manufacturing in Le Noirmont, Switzerland, which had begun to produce cases in 1880. Dealer Joseph Erard SA. The two companies have provided Hermes with cases and dials for 30 years. Guillaume de Seynes said that obtaining parts from third-party suppliers often slows down the completion time because they are still serving other customers. It is unbearable, but to maintain a good relationship with them in order to stabilize the supply, the best way is to buy directly.

Arceau Le Temps suspendu and Arceau Lift tourbillon watches

   In addition, Vaucher is indeed very powerful and advantageous in many aspects, but Hermes urgently needs some outstanding works to enhance its brand image and attract watch lovers to join. Therefore, Hermès chose to cooperate with independent watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, one of the designers of the OPUS series of Harry Winston, to launch the Arceau Le Temps suspendu watch, which has won the GPHG award, and then cooperated with the Swiss Centre for Advanced Movement Research. La Joux-Perret (advantage is flying tourbillon technology) launched the complex function Arceau Lift tourbillon tourbillon watch.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

   In the history of Hermès watch development, there is a partner closely related to it, that is, today’s watch giant Jaeger-LeCoultre, has in-depth contact with Hermès since the beginning of the last century, Hermès for its retail products, Jaeger-LeCoultre provides movements for Hermès and cooperates in production Watches continued until La Montre Hermès was founded in 1978, and Hermès began to produce its own watches. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre still has a close relationship with Hermès. In 2013, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Hermes launched a limited edition of 176 Hermes air clocks. This is the iconic precision watch type of Jaeger-LeCoultre. It has never previously cooperated with other brands to manufacture air clocks.

   Hermes is currently one of the very few brands in many luxury goods groups that is still growing steadily. According to the 2014 financial report, all major business categories of Hermès have shown negative growth only in the watch sector, which has received industry influence. All other categories have achieved growth to varying degrees. . The low proportion of watches in Hermès’ business has not allowed Hermès to abandon this sustainable development industry, but is constantly seeking breakthroughs. In the impression of consumers, luxury watches and clocks pay attention to the “roots and roots of Miao Hong”. They must have historical heritage and characteristic attributes. Hermès clocks obviously have such a basic background, and its high-end watches have not developed for more than 10 years. Suddenly began to emerge. Of course, Hermès still has a long way to go to become the core brand of Haute Horlogerie, but we might as well slowly appreciate her unique and rare watches, and feel the exotic atmosphere rare in the traditional watchmaking industry, and then Watching her grow up gradually, she needs time, we are more patience, and may usher in a new landscape.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin
Jaeger LeCoultre celebrates its 175th anniversary with a commemorative Master Ultra Thin watch. Above the chocolate-colored dial, two classic crown-prince-style hands are all there is to it. Its simple cleansing of functions seems to be without a trace of fireworks. This is a watch that looks so quiet. Even the time seems to stop jumping against the elegant Arabic numerals.
Master Ultra Thin watch is equipped with Jaeger-LeCoultre 849 manual winding movement consisting of only 123 parts. The thickness of the movement is only 1.85 mm. And its slim shape of 38 mm in diameter seems to be embarrassing. Simple and practical functions, classic and timeless shape, a good watch worthy of collection.

Since 2007, the TOP GUN Navy Air Force watch has become a classic model in the IWC pilot series. The fully equipped large pilot series TOP GUN Naval Air Combat Perpetual Calendar watch is equipped with unique advanced functions, including four-digit year display perpetual calendar, moon phase display and seven-day power reserve display. Integrating the well-defined instrument design of the 1940s with modern watchmaking technology. Its aircraft-shaped red seconds hand contrasts with the black and white dial. The pilot’s TOP GUN naval air force chronograph watch is equipped with flyback function and anti-magnetic protection device, and is equipped with IWC’s homemade movement.

Automatic movement / 7-day power reserve / 48mm diameter / zirconia material / hour, minute, small seconds indicator / date, month, year display / moon phase display / sapphire crystal and case back / woven strap Soaring Horizons

For a long time, the price strategy of luxury goods has been extremely cautious. However, since last year, the price of luxury watches has undergone successive adjustments. Today, Guanya Watch City announced that since May 2 , Cartier blue balloon series precious metal watches will be reduced in price, ranging from 4% to 10%. After that, the author consulted people familiar with the matter and finally confirmed that Cartier does have a plan to reduce prices, but has not yet announced the specific price reduction range and the scope of the models. , But the precious metal version of the blue balloon did adjust.

    According to the news from the famous watch dealer Guanya Watch City, Cartier’s price adjustment is only for the precious metal watches of the blue balloon series, including jewelry watches and K gold watches, involving a total of 70 styles, with a price reduction of up to 10 %. Just at the beginning of this month, that is, from April 1st, Jaeger-LeCoultre increased the price of some watches in mainland China by a small margin, about 1% -5%, and there were not many watches involved. At that time, there were rumors that Richemont Group was adjusting the price of some watches. As the market continues to cool, price adjustments are commonplace, but it is unexpected that Cartier’s price reduction involves many models, but only one series is involved, and it is considered the best-selling series.

    However, the price reduction is good news for the majority of consumers. After all, in the context of the state’s launch of a new tax policy on the control of cross-border e-commerce platforms and entry goods channels, the most secure way to buy watches is to purchase them domestically Of course, everyone knows that domestic prices have experienced significant price declines after undergoing multiple price adjustments in 2015, but compared to foreign countries, the prices are still high, so the brand’s price concessions, It is an encouragement and benefit for consumers. After all, buying a watch at home can be more convenient and convenient than abroad, at least after-sales issues are more secure.

At the 2015 ‘Watches and Miracles’ Asian High-end Watch & Clock Fair, Richard Mille is about to exhibit the Asian version of the RM 017 ultra-thin tourbillon watch with ATZ white ceramic and TZP black ceramic case. The new RM 017 Asian dial has a unique design and is decorated with Chinese numbers to highlight Chinese cultural characteristics. Like every RichardMille piece, RM 017 represents the tradition and exquisiteness of fine watchmaking technology. The new work’s splints, screws and even hands are all handmade.
   Following the first introduction of the RM 016 rectangular case, the RM 017 Tourbillon is the first tourbillon watch with a rectangular case. The RM 017 ultra-thin tourbillon watch measures 49.80 mm x 38.00 mm x 8.70 mm. It is designed to fit the curve and taper of the wrist at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock, meeting the expectations of all Richard Mille enthusiasts. The RM 017 movement has 23 jewel bearings with a wobble frequency of 3 Hz. Its dimensions are 31.20 mm x 29.45mm and its thickness is only 4.65mm. The RM 017 manual-winding movement is one of the thinnest tourbillon movements ever made.

   In addition, the RM 017 tourbillon uses ribbed grade 5 titanium alloy and black PVD coating on the bottom plate, plywood and balance plate, which can improve the overall rigidity and surface smoothness of the movement. This is good for the good operation of the gear train. The essential. The hard materials make it extremely time consuming to manufacture these titanium alloy parts; at the same time, due to the flammable nature of titanium during processing, additional safety precautions are required during the manufacturing process. The base plate and all titanium parts of this ultra-flat tourbillon model are independently and extensively tested to ensure optimal strength requirements.
   The function display of the RM 017 also continues Richard Mille’s passion for mechanical innovation. This concept is similar to a car’s gearbox. As long as the crown is pulled out, three functions can be selected: W (winding), N (neutral) and H (manual). With this special gear system, the stress on the crown is minimized and the function of the crown is prevented from affecting the movement. In addition, a block-type gear safety system and a torque-limited crown are designed to prevent the ultra-flat manual winding movement from being damaged due to excessive winding.

   The RM 017 Asian version of the three-piece case is available in ATZ white ceramic or TZP black ceramic with a 5N red gold main case. ATZ and TZP ceramic materials are excellent in shock resistance and scratch resistance, and have a matte effect after a long period of processing and grinding. The design and manufacture of this watch case are all expressing the movement, case and dial. Set of design concepts. The fine craftsmanship is almost rigorous. For example, the outer ring is no longer used, but the movement is fixed to the fixed rubber (ISO SW) of the chassis with 4 titanium screws. RM 017 borrows the elements of motorsports and marine sports from the watch series into a perfectly smooth and ultra-thin case. It has beautiful lines and is one of the thinnest watches.
   The RM 017 Ultra-thin Tourbillon Watch Asia Limited Edition is limited to three white ceramic cases and four black ceramic cases, which are only available in Richard Mille stores in Asia.

This year’s Geneva watch exhibition, Montblanc returns to nature, while paying tribute to the spirit of adventure and the fine tradition of fine watchmaking at Minerva Watch Factory. Against the backdrop of nature, Montblanc presents its latest watch masterpieces, including the new Montblanc star series, timewalker series, heritage series, as well as the legendary Minerva professional military and mountain adventure watches from the 1920s and 1930s. Inspired by the new 1858 series.

Montblanc 1858 Series Bronze Automatic Chronograph (Model: 119908)

   Bronze case with khaki green dial, decorated with historic rhodium-plated cathedral hour and minute hands, white chronograph seconds and small white dial hands, beige Arabic numerals with Super-LumiNova® and classic rail -Style minute scale circle. The 30-minute counter and small seconds are located at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively, while the 12 o’clock position features the trademark style used by the brand in the 1930s, text written in historical fonts, and the MontBlanc peak logo .
For more details, please click: Silver-white dial with radial Montblanc hexagonal white star engraved pattern and rail-shaped minute scale circle, with black Roman numerals (old Arabic numerals), blue Willow-shaped hour and minute hands, blue Batten seconds hand with Montblanc hexagonal white star logo on the bottom, and rhodium-plated Barton date hands. A date circle consisting of 31 date numbers surrounds the dial, and a small crescent-shaped hand at the top rotates along it to indicate the date. The day of the week and month are displayed in a small window above the dial, and the moon phase display is below the dial.

For more details of actual shooting, please click: The smoked caramel-colored dial is decorated with solar radiation patterns, with layers, showing gradient effects and exquisite style. The dial is plated with 18K rose gold plated Arabic numerals and polka dot hour markers, 18K rose gold plated with luminous coating curved toffee hour and minute hands, and 18K rose gold plated Barton seconds hand. The classic Montblanc traditional logo is set at 12 o’clock on the dial, while the hour circle is decorated with the ‘grené’ pattern, showing a unique grainy matte texture, which contrasts with the central dial and complements each other.

For more details on actual shooting, please click: This watch uses the ‘reversed panda’ dial, which is in sharp contrast. The chronograph dial is listed at the three o’clock, six o’clock and nine o’clock positions. The design goes back to the traditional 3-6-9 chronograph position. The numbers, scales, and precise minute tracks on the dial’s edges are coated with Super-LumiNova®, and the 15-minute graduated ring is decorated with a red logo for maximum legibility.

For more details, please click: 20190117 / 52396.html
For more news details, please click: 20190114 / 52171.html

In addition, the Montblanc TimeWalker series also offers a 41mm automatic chronograph (model: 119940)

For more information about the 2019 Geneva watch fair, please pay attention to the watch house live feature:

In this wave of ‘Happy New Year’, the earliest and most complete works are Piaget. In order to pay tribute to Chinese culture, Piaget released a series of jewelry watches with the theme of dragons and phoenixes on the eve of the Dragon, bringing together its designers, watchmakers, goldsmiths, jewelry inlayers, engravers, and enamel painters. Experts from various fields worked together to show not only the superb craftsmanship, but also the fusion of Chinese mythology and fables with Western artistic thinking, which stirred up a unique oriental beauty.
Family members on the timepiece
 The dragon and the phoenix symbolize honor and authority, and have a sacred status in Chinese culture. The earl vividly reproduced the figures of the couple of gods hovering in the sky on the square dial with the timepiece, whether it is three-dimensional metalwork inlaid, hand-carved dragon-shaped decoration, or drawn by enamel technique, All captured the charm of the charm. The dial is full of dragons and phoenixes. Every scale and feather is extremely detailed. The craftsmanship under the dial is just as wonderful. From the ultra-thin movement to the complex floating tourbillon movement, all are made by La Cote-aux-Fees. The workshop is designed and produced by itself.

 The most gorgeous of this series is the two unique advanced jewelry mysterious watches, which create smooth dragons and phoenixes with smooth metal lines, delicately set with round and square cut diamonds, and delicately embellished egg-faced cut gemstones, adding more atmosphere. luxurious. It is worth mentioning that in order to achieve different texture effects, Piaget especially used a variety of enamel techniques in the series. Enamel has been used in clock making since the 15th century. Although it is not the mainstream decorative technique of the 20th century, with the recent popularity of retro fashion, this traditional technology has become more and more popular. The unique oriental flavor of enamel is just like dragons and phoenixes. Totems coincide.
 Those who are interested in echoing the theme of dragons and phoenixes are also Chopin and Cartier. The former LUC Urushi di-painted watch series is based on the Chinese concept of ‘five elements’ of gold, wood, water, fire, and earth. The Kirin and other five kinds of spirit beasts are decorated with Japanese national treasure-level lacquer painting on the dial. They were drawn by lacquer master Masaru Kiichiro himself, which is more collectible. The latter is assisted by Western dragons, inspired by Greek mythology. In the Chimera series, a water dragon set with emeralds and diamonds surrounds a large opal that sparkles in ocean tones, adding a fantasy color to this brooch.