‘Cathedral’ Minute Repeat Tourbillon and Column Chronograph

‘More watchmaking traditions, more advanced craftsmanship, more pioneering innovations, more bold attempts, more integrations!’ … This is Mr. Jean-Claude Beaver, CEO of Hublot The encouragement given to the newly established complex watch department, which was established in 2010, has injected infinite vitality into the Hublot watch factory.
In order to welcome the 2011 Basel International Clock and Watch Fair, Hublot is the first in the world to launch a minute repeater watch with two ‘cathedral’ type springs. This is a highly complex watch with a combination of tourbillon and column chronograph. The case and the movement plate are completely made of carbon fiber. This watch perfectly interprets the ‘fusion’ of great watchmaking traditions and future technology.
腕表 The mechanical structure of this watch is sophisticated and sophisticated. It adopts three main high-complex watchmaking processes and is well received by industry experts and collectors. At the same time, it also incorporates an absolute modern spirit: its main manifestation is that three complex processes can be seen from the side of the dial.
In addition to carbon fiber, the fashion of the case is also reflected in the use of titanium and natural rubber and other materials, a perfect interpretation of Hublot’s key concept ‘art of fusion’.
From a design perspective, the minute repeater device is subtly integrated into the middle of the King’s Supreme case. Similarly, the control buttons of the timing device are subtly integrated into the crown. The minute repeater is controlled by a lever device located between 8 o’clock and 10 o’clock, and the hour, minute, and minute are reported by sound. Two of the ‘cathedral’ gongs, one for the time and the other for the minutes, are twice as long as a normal gong. The entire design goal is to create a simple and simple overall effect for such a watch.
The mechanical movement with manual winding is proud of its 5-day power reserve. The hour and minute hands are still centered on the watch to meet traditional reading requirements. The tourbillon, which runs at a high speed in the suspension frame, is located at 6 o’clock, showing an extraordinary structure of extremely high quality. That’s right, the suspension frame has no ball bearings to support its operation, and the Swiss lever escapement is used inside.

The Bell & Ross legend begins with the instruments in the cockpit of the aircraft, because military aircraft’s requirements for time and course are extremely stringent. In order to comply with military specifications, the brand has always contributed to the precise height of the brand. . In 2009, Bell & Ross launched the unique Heritage nostalgic vintage series to pay tribute to pocket watches since the First World War, and flying devices since 1940. In 2018, the Vintage series entered the third generation, incorporating a modern new attitude that combines precision performance and retro spirit, bringing a new classic style to the watch market.

Heritage vintage stainless steel vintage watch inspired by the aircraft dashboard of the 1960s

Bell & Ross Heritage nostalgia classic series Vintage can be said to be a collection of different models, different functions of a variety of watches, square watch, round watch, three-hand watch or chronograph interpretation of the classic black dial and traditional Sand-colored hour markers; four large numbers 12, 3, 6, 9 also make reading time clear and convenient. The third generation Vintage joins the latest watchmaking technology, creating ‘BR V2-92’ and ‘BR V2-94 Steel Heritage’. It has witnessed the change of design and opened a new chapter in the flagship series. It is a refining style that conveys that time is gone and everything has gradually precipitated in the years of washing.

BR V2-92 Heritage Vintage watch

Stainless steel material / BR-CAL.302 automatic movement / hours, minutes, seconds, date display / sapphire crystal mirror / waterproof 100 meters / diameter 41mm
The BR V2-92 and BR V2-94 Steel Heritage are inspired by the aircraft dashboard of the 1960s. They are made of stainless steel with a diameter of 41mm, and the crown is screwed and screwed to strengthen the water resistance to 100 meters. The round lugs and new metal chain bracelet make it comfortable to wear on weekdays. As for the sapphire crystal, there is also ingenuity. With the hyper-curve decoration, it evokes the wearer’s feelings for antique watches. It must also create a pure nostalgia in precision timing.

BR V2-94 Steel Heritage Vintage watch

Stainless steel material / BR-CAL.301 automatic movement / hours, minutes, small seconds, date display / chronograph function / sapphire crystal mirror / waterproof 100 meters / table diameter 41mm

During the 2015 Watch and Miracle Asia Watch Fair, the brand Montblanc launched a cylindrical gossamer tourbillon Geosphères watch with a white gold case and a striking light-colored dial. This watch is limited to 18 pieces, which can be described as ‘a watch hard to find.’

   This watch comes from the Villeret watch factory, one of Montblanc’s two major workshops. If Montblanc’s Reno watch factory is mainly automated, Villeret watch factory is its manual watchmaking workshop. Formerly known as Robert Brother & Cie, Minerve was founded in 1858, and later changed its name to Institut Minerva de Recherche Villeret. In 2006, it was taken over by Montblanc.

   Montblanc Villeret is one of the few watch factories where most traditional watchmaking processes and all micromechanical delicate processing are still carefully performed by hand. Almost every watch is independently refined as a single object. It is worth mentioning that Montblanc has completely retained its traditional manual watchmaking process, and has enhanced the movement details and decoration, presenting the beauty of the movement like a pocket watch in a watch.

   The chronograph is its masterpiece. It was even more prominent in the 1930s. The movement is equipped with a large-size screw balance with a swing frequency of 18,000 times per hour. The column wheel of the program, all parts are polished to perfection, and the dimensional accuracy is up to one thousandth of a millimeter.

   Fortunately, the Villeret 1858 series uses a batch of enamel discs from the watch factory’s inventory that year. It is characterized by a speedometer scale on the outer edge of the dial. Average speed in minutes.

   And this cylindrical gossamer tourbillon Geosphères watch uses tourbillon and world time function, the watch movement technology is amazing. The self-developed MB M68.40 manual winding movement consists of 281 parts, and the tourbillon structure with a cylindrical hairspring is composed of 91 components, ensuring that it has a 48-hour power reserve. The balance wheel oscillates 18,000 times per hour. With its 14.5 mm diameter, this balance wheel can achieve a torque of 59 kgf per square centimeter. Today, only a few watchmaking factories still have the expertise to produce balances and balance springs, and Montblanc Villeret has both advanced watchmaking processes for both components.

   The upper part of the dial is dark black and is decorated with aventurine, forming the perfect background of the tourbillon and its curved concave polished tourbillon bridge. The cylindrical hairspring tourbillon has a rotating frame with three button arms and is fixed by a guilloche bridge. Each has a fixed pile to support the bridge, which is very unique. This polished bridge should be ground with a special soft gem file, and never a steel file.

   The lower part of the dial is dark gray, decorated with two spheres and a three-dimensional compass rose design showing the hometown. Two miniature spheres dynamically display the diurnal changes of the northern and southern hemispheres. Miniature engravings on the surface of the sphere outline the contours, demarcation lines of the continents and the oceans that separate them, as well as carefully drawn longitude and latitude lines. The position between the two spheres and the movement is fixed, while the two 24-hour world time dials are equipped with day and night displays and rotate once a day. The rotating disk in the northern hemisphere rotates clockwise, while the rotating disk in the southern hemisphere rotates counterclockwise. This allows the wearer of the watch to view the parts of the current northern and southern hemispheres illuminated by the sun and the parts facing away from the sun at any time of the day. With the help of warp, the wearer can read the current time at any position in the world according to the 24-hour world time display function on the two time dials.
    The time can be adjusted by the crown, the 8 o’clock button and the round button on the side of the case at 4 o’clock. When the crown is pulled out, the wearer can reset the local time while adjusting the world time displayed along the 24-hour time zone line of the two spheres. The corresponding buttons on the case are used to fine-tune the central local time and the home time displayed by the compass at 6 o’clock. Once all hands have been synchronized correctly, you can set a new local time based on a different time zone by simply pressing the button at 8 o’clock, and operating this button will advance all time by one hour each time without affecting the dial The minute display in the center will not change the home time displayed at 6 o’clock or the two world times displayed along the sphere. Therefore, when traveling, the wearer of the watch can easily read the local time according to the central hour and minute hands display, and watch his hometown at 6 o’clock, while referring to the 24-hour scale line along the two spheres. Time anywhere in the world.
   Today, with the popularity of computer technology, it is still possible to adhere to the tradition of the golden age of horological art, to make watches by hand, and make watches with such an attitude, isn’t it beautiful?